What to expect when you receive your Chrysanthemum plant.
7cm tube grown plants packaged securely for shipping
|
7cm Plastic Tube
$13.00 per plant |
30mm x 50mm Preforma Peat and Core Plug.
$9.00 per plant |
SOME TIPS TO CARE FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS
Keep your new young plants in the SHADE for a few days to help them adjust after their journey in a cardboard box.
Chrysanthemums will grow in almost any soil type but good drainage is of the most importance.
The addition of humis materials such as aged manure, compost, leaf mold, or peat moss is very beneficial.
Shallow planting, no deeper that the plant was in its rooting mixture is best but the plants can be planted deeper as well. Protect from frost especially newly planted Chrysanthemums.
Transplant your plant directly into it’s permanent growing position and water in well. Over the next few days do not let your plants dry out. Direct growing into garden bed then space plants approximately 40cm to 60cm apart.
Or.
Plant into pots - Pot size should be 15cm or larger using a good quality potting mix.
A little wilting is not harmful and plants usually bounce back when watered.
Pinching - The removal of the very tip growing portion of the stem will promote more branching and flowers, and in some cases help determine bloom date. Large flowered types should not be pinched after January 20th. Small flowered types can be pinched up to February the 5th. An earlier pinch date will be necessary for early blooming cultivars.
Cutting back - The general rule is if your tall growing cultivars are taller than 30cm at the 10th of January then you can cut them back to about 15cm, leaving some good green foliage or growth below the cut. The result will be shorter plants and better foliage at bloom time.
Feeding - Liquid feeding every 2 to 3 weeks can benefit growth and help the leaves to keep clean from bugs. A side dressing of Tui Novatec or similar at planting is beneficial then apply again in 4 months. When buds start to form do a side dressing using a fertiliser that has a higher concentration of Potash to Nitrogen ratio.
Protect from slugs and snails during wet weather. General garden sprays can be used for the control of aphids,thrips and rusts. Yates Rose Guard, Yates Success ‘Ultra’ and GroVentive can be found at NZ hardware stores.
Overwintering - After flowering cut your plants back to approx 20cm and trim any other growth. In most parts of NZ Chrysanthemums can be overwintered in the garden bed. Where snow settles for more than 2 days it could be worth covering your Chrysanthumum crowns with polythene plastic or lift the plant and store in trays under cover.
Want to know how to grow to enter the Chrysanthemum Flower Shows.
Contact New Zealand National Chrysanthemum Society Inc.
www.chrysanthemumsnz.weebly.com/nz-clubs-and-societies.html
Keep your new young plants in the SHADE for a few days to help them adjust after their journey in a cardboard box.
Chrysanthemums will grow in almost any soil type but good drainage is of the most importance.
The addition of humis materials such as aged manure, compost, leaf mold, or peat moss is very beneficial.
Shallow planting, no deeper that the plant was in its rooting mixture is best but the plants can be planted deeper as well. Protect from frost especially newly planted Chrysanthemums.
Transplant your plant directly into it’s permanent growing position and water in well. Over the next few days do not let your plants dry out. Direct growing into garden bed then space plants approximately 40cm to 60cm apart.
Or.
Plant into pots - Pot size should be 15cm or larger using a good quality potting mix.
A little wilting is not harmful and plants usually bounce back when watered.
Pinching - The removal of the very tip growing portion of the stem will promote more branching and flowers, and in some cases help determine bloom date. Large flowered types should not be pinched after January 20th. Small flowered types can be pinched up to February the 5th. An earlier pinch date will be necessary for early blooming cultivars.
Cutting back - The general rule is if your tall growing cultivars are taller than 30cm at the 10th of January then you can cut them back to about 15cm, leaving some good green foliage or growth below the cut. The result will be shorter plants and better foliage at bloom time.
Feeding - Liquid feeding every 2 to 3 weeks can benefit growth and help the leaves to keep clean from bugs. A side dressing of Tui Novatec or similar at planting is beneficial then apply again in 4 months. When buds start to form do a side dressing using a fertiliser that has a higher concentration of Potash to Nitrogen ratio.
Protect from slugs and snails during wet weather. General garden sprays can be used for the control of aphids,thrips and rusts. Yates Rose Guard, Yates Success ‘Ultra’ and GroVentive can be found at NZ hardware stores.
Overwintering - After flowering cut your plants back to approx 20cm and trim any other growth. In most parts of NZ Chrysanthemums can be overwintered in the garden bed. Where snow settles for more than 2 days it could be worth covering your Chrysanthumum crowns with polythene plastic or lift the plant and store in trays under cover.
Want to know how to grow to enter the Chrysanthemum Flower Shows.
Contact New Zealand National Chrysanthemum Society Inc.
www.chrysanthemumsnz.weebly.com/nz-clubs-and-societies.html
Growers Information
At planting in the Spring to Summer period I pinch out the growing tip to offer what is effectively the first stop. On each cultivar listed in my gallery, I've noted the ones that need the second stop which is usually done in January. You may need to play around with the stopping dates to suit your flowering times or just leave them and let nature run its course, however this can result in very tall growing plants that will require additonal support especially near flowering. Planting from February onwards I do no pinching or stopping and let the plant run.
From a flower farming perspective, I do make a habit of supporting my Chrysanthemums using flower netting I find providing support prevents bent stems and flower heads from toppling over and dragging in the dirt, but if you intend to plant them in the garden then surrounding companion plants or the use of bamboo stakes may provide that support.
At planting in the Spring to Summer period I pinch out the growing tip to offer what is effectively the first stop. On each cultivar listed in my gallery, I've noted the ones that need the second stop which is usually done in January. You may need to play around with the stopping dates to suit your flowering times or just leave them and let nature run its course, however this can result in very tall growing plants that will require additonal support especially near flowering. Planting from February onwards I do no pinching or stopping and let the plant run.
From a flower farming perspective, I do make a habit of supporting my Chrysanthemums using flower netting I find providing support prevents bent stems and flower heads from toppling over and dragging in the dirt, but if you intend to plant them in the garden then surrounding companion plants or the use of bamboo stakes may provide that support.
Hi, it’s Maree here I love growing chrysanthemums, especially the heirloom types I’ve been collecting obsessively for a number of years. I aspire to grow blooms to enter into the horticultural shows which is only a very slightly different technique to growing for cut flowers.
Presently any of my spare blooms are shared with my local cut flower artists.
It’s not hard to grow Chrysanthemums for the busy home gardener or flower farmer the hardest part is remembering to do the essentials at the right times which usually can clash with the sometimes overwhelming workload of all the other Spring and Summer jobs. Make a note to remind yourself of the pinching, watering, spraying and setting up the support netting jobs. Giving your plants their first stop will help the young plants develop more branches then on most varieties I stop again about the first week of January this is for the ones under cover if growing outside it’s about a week later before I get to them.
Having a regular spray programme can be advantageous for the control of insects such as aphids, mites and fungal problems. Any of your general garden spray products will work and it is better to alternate between products. The control of slugs is also worth doing, especially in Spring or when the plants are small and then again in autumn to protect the young stools that will be trying to push through the soil surface. Chrysanthemums will grow in any good garden free draining soil. A side dressing of fertiliser throughout the growing season will have favourable results with plant health, bloom quality and the development of the underground stools. Disbudding can be started as soon as the buds appear, sweeping through the growing area daily to remove the side buds and leaving the main top bud. If you don't get a chance to disbud these plants still make wonderful usable sprays.
Have fun experimenting with disbudding.
Currently, I’m making my study to note which varieties flower in what week and month so as to be able to offer a constant supply of blooms. I’m working on getting more earlier flowering varieties together bringing about the possibility of supplying chrysanthemum blooms from December through to May.
Last season I tried my hand manual pollination. With good eye wear and a very fine bristled brush I scooped what I hope is pollen and transferred it to what I hope are the right parts of the Chrysanthemums botany to help bring through a viable seed to aid in the introduction of new Chrysanthemum cultivars. Apart from the anticipated excitement of what the genetics throw, the thought of adding to our very limited cultivar choices here NZ will help to offer a more diverse range. NZ chrysanthemum enthustist in the 70 and 80's were importing some very glorious cultivars some of which still exist today but many have been lost due to the Chrysanthemum falling out of vogue. Importing plant material through the NZ border has for good reason become a very complex and potentially expensive process.
Thank you for reading this far , I will keep you updated on any of my learning or successes. Warm Regards, Maree
Presently any of my spare blooms are shared with my local cut flower artists.
It’s not hard to grow Chrysanthemums for the busy home gardener or flower farmer the hardest part is remembering to do the essentials at the right times which usually can clash with the sometimes overwhelming workload of all the other Spring and Summer jobs. Make a note to remind yourself of the pinching, watering, spraying and setting up the support netting jobs. Giving your plants their first stop will help the young plants develop more branches then on most varieties I stop again about the first week of January this is for the ones under cover if growing outside it’s about a week later before I get to them.
Having a regular spray programme can be advantageous for the control of insects such as aphids, mites and fungal problems. Any of your general garden spray products will work and it is better to alternate between products. The control of slugs is also worth doing, especially in Spring or when the plants are small and then again in autumn to protect the young stools that will be trying to push through the soil surface. Chrysanthemums will grow in any good garden free draining soil. A side dressing of fertiliser throughout the growing season will have favourable results with plant health, bloom quality and the development of the underground stools. Disbudding can be started as soon as the buds appear, sweeping through the growing area daily to remove the side buds and leaving the main top bud. If you don't get a chance to disbud these plants still make wonderful usable sprays.
Have fun experimenting with disbudding.
Currently, I’m making my study to note which varieties flower in what week and month so as to be able to offer a constant supply of blooms. I’m working on getting more earlier flowering varieties together bringing about the possibility of supplying chrysanthemum blooms from December through to May.
Last season I tried my hand manual pollination. With good eye wear and a very fine bristled brush I scooped what I hope is pollen and transferred it to what I hope are the right parts of the Chrysanthemums botany to help bring through a viable seed to aid in the introduction of new Chrysanthemum cultivars. Apart from the anticipated excitement of what the genetics throw, the thought of adding to our very limited cultivar choices here NZ will help to offer a more diverse range. NZ chrysanthemum enthustist in the 70 and 80's were importing some very glorious cultivars some of which still exist today but many have been lost due to the Chrysanthemum falling out of vogue. Importing plant material through the NZ border has for good reason become a very complex and potentially expensive process.
Thank you for reading this far , I will keep you updated on any of my learning or successes. Warm Regards, Maree
